Press Release Summary = As the mass number of do it yourself restorers continue to grow the demand for correct technique is strong. The following article will show you correct procedures to straighten out any dent and the right hammer, dolly and/or spoon for each application.
Press Release Body = HAMMER TIME
by Jeff Lilly
As the mass number of do it yourself restorers continue to grow the demand for correct technique is strong. The following article will show you correct procedures to straighten out any dent and the right hammer, dolly and/or spoon for each application. Lead Shot: Here an assortment of 15 hammers from the ALC Company. AKA S & H Industries 1-800-253-9726. These are the basic hammers that are needed if you really want to straighten any type of dent.
The ALC Hammers are top quality yet affordable tools. Lead Shot: Here are the spoons ( outside edge ) and dollies which are needed as reinforcement for the hammers. The spoons lay down on top of the metal and when they are struck they give a more even surface movement. The dolly goes behind the dented area which you will be tapping. For support and reshaping. To make it easier all tools are marked with a letter which will be used to describe the style and part number of each.
1. ( A ) Short Bumping Hammer (R) 501 Slapping Spoon: This fender is laying down with the outside portion against the table. We are straightening the fender from the backside. The fender has a gradual wave and rather than hammering it out, we use the slapping Spoon. Strike the spoon with the short bumping hammer, it has medium weight with a lot of control. This helps to evenly spread out the pressure of the blow without leaving any hammer marks in the panel.
2. (B) 5 Inch 331 Bullet Point: During the course of body work a high spot may be found. This needs to be flattened very carefully. On the high spot we will use a short pick hammer. Tap the metal easily, just enough to flatten the high spot. Fill it with a thin layer of filler and reblock the entire area.
3. (C) 356 Door skin Hammer: (J) Large Heel Dolly : This hammer has a small bent area to help crimp the backside of a door skin. On classic cars there are not alot of door skins available but we used this to help straighten out the wheel well. We back it up with the Heel Dolly. Put the pressure on the edge below the dip. The 356 hammer has the right contour to safely straighten this edge.
4. (D) 302 Medium Shrinking Hammer: (D) 125 Large Loaf Dolly: This hammer has a round end and a square end for getting into tight corners. We are straightening these edges to get them flat before putting the panel back on the car. When you have a large area of flat sheet metal it will tend to get wavy so you need this type of dolly to provide adequate area of support while using a balanced smooth faced hammer.
5. (E) #351 Finishing Hammer: For shaping and adding a curve to different pieces of metal use this hammer combined with a lead shot filled bag which will \" give\" slightly to the metal above it allowing shape to take place. Here we are using it to shape a curved fender extension. This hammer is rounded on both ends and is designed to stretch and form metal.
6. (F) Finishing Double Hammer #354: To get the decklid lip to fit with the rear panel, without leaving any marks on the body line use the spoon to apply pressure and an inch above it tap with the #354 finishing hammer. This hammer is a little longer and has more weight, but still won\'t mar the metal when used properly because it is rounded on the edges slightly.
7. (G) #341 Straight Pick Pencil During the alignment of fender to door, pry out with one hand against the door using the slapping spoon. Tap with the straight pick pencil hammer 2-3 inches from the edge. The #341 hammer is great for flat surfaces with its big striking face. This tool is also very balanced which helps you to control it.
8. (H) 375 Offset Bumping and Cross Ping Hammer: (f) 108 Large Toe Dolly: To straighten the bottom of a radiator support which has a curve to it this dolly and hammer work best. The hammer has a small curve to it which really gives you control to tap out this type of dent. The placing of the dolly is very important too as seen in the photo.
9. (I) 368 Curved Finishing and grooving Hammer: This hammer is great for getting into awkward areas like the crease on this wheel well. The hammer head has a curve shape which enables you to straighten the inside wheel edge but never making contact with the outer edge and the end is smoothed over to help eliminate marks.
10. (J) 370 Straight Grooving and Shrinking Hammer: ( H) 135 General Purpose Low Crown Dolly: On damaged warped metal use this hammer which has serrated teeth that move the metal. Hold the dolly behind the area as you strike with the hammer and the teeth will actually pull the metal out because of the force of the dolly behind it. ( This is called a cold shrinking process) and actually works in the reverse of what you would think.
11. (K) 7 inch medium curved Pick Pencil Hammer:#342 With this hammer you can get into really deep hard to get angle places. For instance here we are trying to get out a small dent located back inside a quarter panel near the tail light housing.
12. (M) 369 Straight Finishing and Grooving Hammer: ( R) 107 Rubber Covered Dolly On this application we don\'t want to chip the paint on the valve cover. This dolly forms the shape of the outside surface without chipping, while the hammer which has a straight end for finishing is on the inside straightening the very outside skirt edge of the valve cover.
13. (N) 358 Dinging Hammer: Here a door has been pushed too far in. Using the spoon again push down with your left hand. This hammer has a square end so you can come up to the edge of the panel without hitting the quarter thus straighting it effectively.
14. (O) 361 8 inch large straight pick Hammer: There is a dent from where the shock came loose on this floor. To reach in there effectively you need a long straight hammer like the # 361. Dollies and Spoons.
15. ( B) 106 Spoon Dolly : This dolly can be used for areas that are hard to reach such as inside this tail light section and when your arm is too short or isn\'t small enough to go through a tiny opening, or any time you need support where you cannot reach.
16. (C) 145 Fender Dolly: This dolly is a strangely shaped tool which will help to fit into some of those unusual places in fenders and hoods. With this tool you can get in and support the whole area while you tap the metal back into shape with a regular finishing hammer which has a smooth face on it.
17. ( D) Large Loaf Dolly: (D) #302 Medium Hammer : This panel has an edge which needs to be straightened out. The #302 hammer has a square end which runs evenly with the panel thus makes full contact with the surface you are straightening.
18. (E) 118 High Low shrinking Dolly : This tool has grooves which support the metal on either side with a groove in the center, simply place the groove against the metal and then tap the metal slightly inside this groove. This allows you to shrink the high spot as seen. You can also use it to finish off doors from the backside with it\'s gradual sloping contoured back.
19. (L) 5 inch Short Pick Pencil Point: ( F) 108 Large Toe Dolly : This dolly has a flat surface for flattening out edges and fits flush with the inside wall when needed.
20: ( K) 130 Ruffing Out Dolly On a contoured panel use this dolly which has two ends. The end we are using fits most panels with this basic shape.
21: ( L) 105 General Purpose Rail Dolly: The edge of this hood was pried up. So we use this dolly to contact 1/4 inch of the panel in it\'s highest or peaked area which stabilizes the panel, it can then be hammered back into shape.
22: 593 heavy Duty Inside Slapping Spoon : Often the brace under a hood will apply too much pressure raising the hood higher than is acceptable. You need to use the spoon method with a medium weighted hammer. The blows get spread out evenly and leave no marks on the hood. This is a very subtle way of straightening. !!!!! Although this is a basic overview of the many ways to use a hammer and dolly, I recommend taking an old panel that is too rough to use on your car and try different methods of hammering metal into shape. Experiment with the basics and your own technique for best results.
GOOD LUCK, JEFF LILLY
Web Site = http://www.jefflilly.com
Contact Details = 2106955151 thrillride3d@gmail.com 11125 FM 1560
2025
